Historical note: @wilwheaton has since been run off twitter.
Got my phone back today! I'm in the process of putting everything back on it, but I'm very happy. In addition to not charging to replace the keypad lock key, they also replaced the camera lens, which was a bit scratched. They also tossed a $10 gift card in the box, which is pretty freaking neat. They refreshed the standard software load on the phone, which includes a lot of stuff I don't want (Bloomberg: never use it; Elle: who cares? CNN Video: never use it; ESPNsoccernet: never use it; Facebook: not on Facebook; Friendster: whatever; MySpace: not on MySpace; etc etc etc), but that's not too surprising. They do have the Amazon.com application installed, which is cool because I actually liked having that one and for some reason it's not on the Ovi store.
So now I'm going through the process of installing all of the stuff that goes on the phone. It takes a little while, but when it's done I've got my MP3 player (currently 25GB of MP3s on the phone), GPS (preloading maps speeds up the GPS software significantly).
As I go through the process, I'm noticing more cool stuff that never appeared before. For all of the little applications installed on the phone, they stuck the actual install files on the phone too, so I can re-install them without having to poke around Ovi store. This is especially nice for the Amazon.com application, since it's not on the Ovi store. Also, they stuck a bunch of random MP3s of actual music on there. Neat! It's actually good music, too. Also: they appear to have preloaded ALL of their maps onto the phone. That helps explain why the 36GB internal storage only has 28GB free (road maps of the entire planet take up about 1.6GB). Not going to complain, though I was going to dump those on the microSD card instead of the internal storage. But it takes a while to download all of that, so ... score! I'll take it!
The N97 hasn't been a perfect phone, and Nokia was a bit slow to react to some of the problems. However: the latest firmware update has resolved a lot of problems, and it seems like they treated me right with this bit of hardware trouble I had. I feel much better about Nokia today than I did a week ago. Nokia appears to have officially acknowledged that they screwed up with the phone and their handling of it, which is somewhat unusual so that's nice. Maybe I'll buy the N98 after all ...
Update: It's around 11:30pm, I'm still working on this. Went to add some stuff to the front page of the phone. All of the options I expected at this point, plus: "wilwheatons Tweets." Huh? That's new ...